F r e q u e n t l y A s k e d Q u e s t i o n s
*Where are you located? We live in the Central Valley of Northern California about 2 miles off the 99 freeway in Turlock. About 90 minutes East of San Francisco Bay Area, South of Sacramento, North of Fresno and West of Yosemite.
*What will have been done to the 7-8 week old pups when they are ready for adoption? Besides being carried around like newborn babies by our kids, we will gently apply theSuper Dog Early Neurological Stimulation between 4 and 17 days. They will also be litter box (with pine wood shavings) trained and discouraged from gnawing human hands as well as socialized to cats and other home situations by 7 weeksart. We no longer removed dew claws as that can lead to
*How much are your pups? It depends on the litter and the dogs used; the best pedigrees are of course more expensive to breed. The last I checked, the big breeders with the champions I use sell their pups to pet homes for between $3500-$4500. As our line has improved, our prices have increased and we rarely have pups available now for less than $3500 plus California Sales Tax . If you are looking for a bargain, you may want to look elsewhere. Here in the valley there are many backyard breeders and it's not uncommon to see AKC Lab pups listed in the local papers for around $1000-1500. Our dogs are not for everyone; only those able to discern the very best in disposition, health and structure will be interested. A lot of thought and planning goes into each breeding and tons of time and effort into truly hand-raising each pup. At our house it's a team effort and it takes a lot of work to do it right.
*What is the best way to secure a pup? If you think you want one of our pups, it's really best to send in a fully-refundable deposit of $200 made out to Langley Labs; the check does not get cashed though. Let me know if you'd like our mailing address. Once received your check will sit in a file in the order it was received so I can keep the pick fair. It secures your place in the queue and puts you in a special category for email updates. We have lots of inquires but I really only correspond with those serious enough to send in a deposit. My time and energy mostly goes to our puppy buyers and for them I am always available by phone or text. If you change your mind for any reason at any point, your deposit check will be shredded... no questions asked. It's sort of a "no loose" option because if you end-up getting a pup, you'll have a high pick and if it doesn't work out for some reason, it's all good because it won't end up costing you more than a postage stamp. Situations change and we don't ever want anyone to feel obligated or pressured into owning one of our dogs because of a forfeited deposit.
*I've sent in a deposit, can you tell me where I stand in the pick? When there were just a few deposits on a future litter, it was easy to give people an idea, but now it's really not possible until the pups have been born and I have communicated with those in the queue. One can move up fairly quickly though, especially since I encourage people to back out without loosing their deposit if their situation changes from less than optimal. Below is the current wait list in the order deposits were received. (Please keep in mind though that anyone can jump up to the top of the pick by accepting a Guardian pup; either started or baby. Also, those that want their pups started may get priority. And lastly, those that already have one of our dogs and want another may also be allowed into a current pick as well; it's another perk to owning a Langley Lab. That is happening quite often now as those that got a pup years ago are now wanting and ready for another one. They do not need to get on the waitlist and can jump into a pick anytime that's right. IN FACT, THAT IS HAPPENING ALL THE TIME NOW SO, IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE OF OUR DOGS AND WANT ONE, YOU SORT OF NEED TO BE THE "SQUEAKY WHEEL" AND BUG ME BECAUSE I RARELY SEND OUT UPDATES OFFERING AVAILABLE PUPS ANYMORE... MOST JUST GO STRAIGHT TO THOSE THAT ASK. This list can change quite quickly and many times people wait (we still have several deposits from 2009-2011) until the timing is just right; many for their precious older dog to pass on which is always uncertain, so don't be discouraged if you are near the bottom. Could you please help keep it up-to-date by notifying me should you change your mind? If I email you with an update and ask if you're still wanting a pup but don't hear back within 10 days, I will assume you are no longer interested, your name will be removed from list and your deposit check shredded. Thanks so much for helping us keep this wait list current and accurate. And please let me know if I didn't get your preference details quite right though. An * by your name simply means I have received your reply to the most recent update.
*I'm on your list; how/when do I request a certain pup? I will also keep the Recent / Upcoming Litters page updated with the latest puppy news, so when the time and litter is right for you (once they're actually born), just email me before those pups are 5 weeks old and I will then note those preferences and litter choice next to your name. You will be able to see where you might stand in that pick, BUT that of course can change quickly if someone above you wants to pick from the same litter and they also contact me before the pups turn 5 weeks. By the time they are 6 weeks you should know if you will more than likely be offered a pup in the current litter. I will then confirm the exact pick order with last-minute details and directions in an email to each potential family about 5 days before pick day. Even that can change though as I allow people to back out at any point without loosing their deposit. PLEASE NOTE: I won't assume you want the next available pup just because you have an ASAP by your name. It will still be up to you to request a pup from your preferred litter before they are 5 weeks old.
*Your wait list is pretty long; when do you think there will be a pup for us? YES! We will have Babies, Started Pups, (Pre, Semi and Fully) as well as Guardian Girls available all summer as to work around your vacations. Those on waitlist have been notified so anyone can jump in anytime! I sure wish I could tell the future; it would make all our lives so much easier. But I can't. I give people back their deposit check when they pick up their pup and the average wait time seems to be around 9 months; sometimes shorter and sometimes a bit longer especially if they were waiting for something specific or are working around their travel.
*Tell me about the "pick days". Basically, a weekend date is set when the pups are about 7 weeks old. People that have placed deposits on pups are scheduled to come and pick their pup about an hour apart. As mentioned above, picks are given in the order the deposits are received, we actually use the postmark date on the envelopes. Many times though there will be two families here picking at the same time; one for a girl and one a boy. Directions and last-minute details will be sent about 5 days before the pick day, but most of the info you will need is at the bottom of the "Are You Sure..." page.
*When is the best time to meet the parent dogs? The mama dogs all live with their guardian families until they come back to our home to whelp. And her family wants her back ASAP once she whelps, so she is usually not still with us on pick day. If you'd like to meet her, you may want to come another time; ideally when the pups are between 3-4 weeks old. Their eyes will be open and their mama will still be nursing. Dewey is the only dog we have living here at our home, and you are welcome to come meet him and us anytime :)
*What form of payments do you accept? Cash of course, Paypal and Venmo work also but we are happy to take personal checks (with 5 day hold--sorry, I've been burned before), cashier's check or money order. If it’s less than 5 days to pick-up, then we'd appreciate a method other than personal check please.
*Do you offer a written health guarantee? Yes we do. We are responsible for bringing these pups into the world and we will take responsibility for their genetic health as well. The parents have been x-rayed for genetic defects, and for those over two years old, most of those x-rays have been submitted to O.F.A. and received their certification. But our vet told us that if we breed long enough, we are going to see defects show up eventually as they exist in every line... even those that are so very careful in breeding only the best. A spaniel breeder once said, "I defy any two parents to produce 8 children all the same that are perfectly healthy and none have allergies, need glasses, braces etc." I guess it's the same with dogs. Even so, we want to be a responsible breeder, so we guarantee our pups are free from hip and elbow defects for 26 months (2 months longer than most breeders.) More details are available on the health guarantee.
*Are your dogs hips and elbows cleared? Absolutely! As mentioned above, all potential parents are x-rayed for hip and elbow dysplasia before they are ever bred. However, those x-rays can not be officially rated and certified by O.F.A. before their second birthday. Some actually get submitted to O.F.A. for their preliminary rating, either way those preliminary x-rays are read by professional, trusted vets before breeding. We only breed those dogs who hips appear to be either GOOD or EXCELLENT, unlike some breeders who also breed FAIR ... because "Hey, at least they're not POOR". We now also DNA test before breeding for the following diseases: (and all our dogs we breed are CLEAR)
*Hereditary Nasal Parakeratosis: an autosomal-recessive genetic disease of Labrador Retrievers characterized by thickening and depigmentation of the nasal planum.
*Exercise Induced Collapse: a genetic syndrome, predominantly occurring in mixed breed dogs related to several retriever breeds.
*Centronuclear Myopathy: is an autosomal-recessive genetic disease of dogs characterized by early-onset muscular atrophy.
*Degenerative Myelopathy: is a devastating degenerative disease of the spinal cord that can progress rapidly and cause weakness in the hind limbs and eventually paraplegia among genotypically affected dogs.
*Hyperuricosuria: is an autosomal recessive genetic urinary disease characterized by urate urolithiasis and cystitis.
*Cystinuria: an autosomal recessive disorder that affects a dog's ability to filter cystine out of urine.
*PRA-prcd: a group of diseases that cause the retina of the eye to degenerate slowly over time.
*Do you ship puppies to other parts of the country/world? No, I'm sorry. Not unless we can figure out a way to have them fly on someone's lap and not be shipped as cargo, otherwise, it's not going to happen. I have made exceptions though for started pups because they're older and already crate-trained and will feel secure in there with their familiar bed and toys. Please don't ask if I will ship a young pup. HOWEVER: I have recently heard that some airlines now allow pups to fly as carry-on! This might be an option for those of you out of state. It would of course be your responsibility to find out any possible airline restrictions and make all arrangements with the airline of your choice. And I would of recommend a non-stop flight. You can also let me know if you need a vet's health certificate for your pup to travel. Again, I know very little about this option first-hand, but there's lots online. This is how it could possibly work: You would fly in to either MER (20 min away) or SFO, OAK, or SJC (each about 90 min away with out traffic; should be good on a Saturday), or (ONT if getting a SoCal pup in Redlands), pick-up rental car, drive to Turlock (or Redlands) in time for your pick slot; pick your pup, head back to airport with pup, turn-in rental car, give pup recommended amount of Bach's and a chance to eliminate in a safe, clean place, put pup in pre-purchased carrier (something like this one? (pup will weigh around 12lbs at 7 weeks), go through security and onto your gate, board plane, put under seat in front of you during take-off and landing. We've had people fly in for many years to pick a pup to be started but this may now be an option for those of you out-of-state wanting to take home a baby.
*Do you provide references of past owners? Yes! We have many who I know would be more than happy to chat with you. We also try to have a puppy reunion each year and you could always talk with our dog owners personally there if you'd like. Unfortunately, we no longer have a private place to meet as my parents sold their lovely ranch. If you hear of a place, let us know and we'll get the reunions back on the calendar! I have done away with the reference page. Honestly, most if not all of you are reading this because you already know someone with one of our dogs. Plus, I wasn't very good at updating all the wonderful notes and pictures sent to me by our wonderful pup owners.
*What will I need to know or have on hand before I bring home my pup? Great question! Please see the bottom of the "Are You Sure" page or Started Pup page if you plan to bring home one of those.
*Tell me about your Guardian Pups. As you may have read on our "About Us" page, we are committed to breeding only the best stock and doing it in a way that allows each dog to live in a loving home. When we have a litter, we watch for and then place those pups we think are the best with hopes of breeding and whelping them back here someday. Rather than have them grow up in a kennel as breeding stock and then place them when their breeding career is over (after 8-10 or more litters), they live all their days with their guardian family right from the start. The Guardian Family owns them, but I retain their breeding rights until they are spayed before their 4th birthday and after no more than two litters. See more detailed info on our "What's a Guardian?" page. Don't be afraid of being a Guardian; most love the opportunity to be an important part of making great pups available in a loving, humane manner. And after all; they would not have their beloved dog if someone else before them didn't agree to be a guardian:) Guardian pups can go home as a baby, semi-started or as a fully-started pup.
*Now that there’s also LangleyLabs SoCal, will there be two waiting lists? Really good question! Nope, still just one and you can choose which litter you’re most interested in regardless of where you live. You can still drive up north if you’re wanting one up here or visa versa.
*Who do we contact in SoCal for a pup? Actually, everything will still go through us up here. The pick for SoCal pups however will be in Redlands, CA.
*Can I get a pup started in Southern California? Hopefully so but not currently. Please note though: vet care and other expenses are quite a bit more in SoCal, so the price at this point will be an additional $500 for either semi-started and started pups that are primarily trained down there.
2006 Mia / Tank Reunion Romp - Snelling CA
Finally, another reunion!
2015 Max Litters Reunion Romp - Linden CA
Guardian Cosette; middle pup in pic above, all grown up
FAQ's & Wait List
(poor little orange guy (4th from the left) must have moved during the pano picture taking.)
in 2007 my parents sold their ranch in Snelling and finally one of our wonderful puppy owners offered her ranch in Linden.
This reunion featured pups sired by Max; a few from each litter were able to join us; they're between 4-12 months old.
Each litter was given a different color bandanna.
Feb 2015: Phoebe's pups at their first vet appointment. The whole litter was started.